Spain's Trains' Entertainment
On the way INTO Barcelona two men were busking and seemed to be singing the Cake song, "Perhaps, perhaps, perhaps." In actual fact (not fake fact) they were singing a song written in 1947 by a Spanish artist. The words are a bit different than the Cake version.
On the train on the way to the airport when leaving Barcelona there was a young man rapping on the train. He put me in mind of two of my former students. A lovely soundtrack setting off the Barcelona departure.
We flew Ryanair from Barcelona to Edinburgh. Their website is a bit dodgy - bright blue and yellow and rife with adds and invitations to buy tons of travel 'enhancing goods.' The flight itself was A-okay.
We arrived in the middle of the night and took a bus to a hostel, Castle Rock Edinburgh, just down from the castle (go figure). We were put in the Romeo and Juliet double. Small, suitable, good view, strong smell of locker room. Very inexpensive and suitable breakfast!
SCOTLAND
Day 1 Edinburgh: 2/7
We decided to take a free walking tour -- tip at the end if you thought it was great. It was great. I'm going to look for similar tours in other cities. We ended up being led around by Kiel (Kyle) from Australia who told us where to spit on the street, which statues to rub for luck and where to rub them, places to get goodly servings of haggis (he mentioned whiskey cream sauce as a topping . . . something we need to try) and who inspired Jekyll and Hyde. We also saw the coffee shop where J.K. Rowling spent a fair amount of time writing the first few Harry Potter books, the school that seems to have inspired Hogwarts (we stared creepily through a gate while students were at recess. Pro: They're probably used to it. Con: We were acting quite creepy.), and a graveyard with body-snatching preventatives, a Tom Riddle, and a dog with a story.
After the tour we strolled around the art gallery and then sat in a pub with a couple of pints for a bit before heading to Lib's flat. Lib is my aunt's sister. She's lovely and vivacious. We had a home-cooked meal, a good night's sleep and a bit of a lie-in in the morning before heading back to the hostel for one more night.
Day 2 Edinburgh: 2/8
We spent some time tooling about Edinburgh castle listening to many historical stories on our tour headsets. Went into Margaret's Chapel, the oldest building in Scotland (if I recall the facts correctly) and then took our leave. On Lib's recommendation we ate our mid afternoon meal at Clarinda's tea room near the bottom of the Royal Mile. It was tasty, good value for money and set up us for our hike to the top of Arthur's Seat.
The hike was taxing at times and in certain places looked like we were coming to the end of anything resembling a trail but no, then a switchback would make itself evident. As we were huffing and puffing our way up we were passed by a gent in his 60s/ 70s running up the hill. Running. Roger saw him again once we were at the top and said it looked like he was going around for another lap. Well done, sir. Well done.
The views of Edinburgh were lovely and the wind was strong. We saw a bird of prey riding the wind in one place looking for his tea and a robin singing lovely evening songs.
After a faster hike down on a trail with handrails we popped into the hostel to shed our winter jackets and then grabbed a bite and a pint before meeting up with a pub crawl. We fell in with some lovely chaps. A German, a New Zealander, an Argentinian, and an Australian.
Suffice it to say there were a number of pubs. I cannot tell you the names of all of them. I cannot tell you how many live bands we saw. I can tell you that I missed much of the picturesque coastline that the train passed the next morning as we traveled to Stonehaven.
2/9 Stonehaven.
As the train pulled into Stonehaven station we lugged our bags to the doors and reached them seconds after they had closed. And so we took a bit of a trip to Aberdeen.
Aberdeen.
A kind train conductor named Ruby wrote us a note on our ticket saying we should be allowed back on the next train without new tickets. We were like students with our hall pass. After 30 minutes on the platform we were on our way back to Stonehaven.
Stonehaven.
Stonehaven is where my aunt and uncle and three of my cousins live. They are awesome and I was very much looking forward to the time in Scotland with them. They live in the old schoolhouse right on the edge of the sea and just down the coast from a castle ruin.
Our first night there they took us to a delicious Italian dinner in Aberdeen and then to a play with great 1960s/ 70s sets and an excellent portrayal of the awkwardness and cringe-worthy nature of certain dinner party interactions. The actors drank so much onstage. They must have had to plan their entrances and exits for convenient pee breaks.
2/10 Edinburgh/ Stonehaven
Giant delicious breakfast courtesy of my Uncle, Jim. He makes his eggs with chives and mayo. They are delicious.
My cousin Tom plays American football at university and he had a game on Sunday so we all piled into the car and drove down to Edinburgh. It's definitely winter here - wind, snow, cold, but with layers and a bit of tea everything is manageable. The game was great - entertaining, good plays happening for both sides but mostly for Tom's team. (they are the Tigers and at the end of their games they jump in a giant huddle and sing, 'The Wonderful thing about Tigers, is Tigers are wonderful things . . . ' some different lyrics, but there's a fair bit of Pooh included. A good time on the sidelines. Unfortunately, there weren't many fans so it was impossible to do the wave.
Back to Stonehaven and delicious chicken, tatties, green beans, and skirliy dinner made by Ann. Skirliy/skirlie - if you don't know - is sooo good. It's pinhead oatmeal, butter, salt, butter, and onions all fried up into a delectable side dish. I have thought about it fondly since my first visit here about a decade ago (though I had mis-remembered the name). Oh, lovely home-cooked food.
2/11
A bit of planning, for a couple-day road trip that we'll be taking into the Highlands beginning tomorrow, and a hike from the castle ruin back to the house. We stopped at a little fish and chips shop, formerly called the Haven, where the fried Mars bar was created in the early 90s. We purchased and ate one. Sweet, crunchy, gooey, good to share. For those of you in Boston who've been to the Haven ---- this town we're in is where the owner is from. The ocean was pushing rocks and spray over the wall of the parking lot as we walked.