Left Toledo, train back to Madrid. Left our bags and uke in a locker and went out into the city.
Ate a quick breakfast during which three goals were scored in a televised soccer match (took me back to high school and our notable double-digit loss games. Ah, memories). Hit up San Miguel Market, wandered a ton, hung out in a restaurant/ bar with a number of giant bulls' heads on the walls.
<<<NIGHT TRAIN NUMBER 2.>>>
Likely built in the 70s or 80s, the reclining capacity of the seats: all of 2 inches. Knee room like a music hall built in the 1800s. Hopefully my least favorite night train of the trip.
<<<Porto, Day 1.>>>
Arrived in Lisbon, gained an hour, caught a train to Porto. Pretty, pleasant, several hour ride. Almost all the houses have terracotta tile roofs. Drying clothes on lines also widespread and picturesque against patterned wall tiles (I recognize that calling someone elses's bloomers picturesque is perhaps strange, but I reckon I'm okay with someone else having an American Beauty moment regarding MY unmentionables - should I ever fly them on a line -, so I'm okay with enjoying the laundered view).
Arrived in Porto, it is an uphill town. J. Eld: we didn't stay in Rivoli; no full size beds available. BUT found a lovely, if damp, pension at the top of the hill. Had a late lunch of the local crazy sandwich (layers of meat, cheese, red sauce, patatas fritas) 6/10 rating. Some walking and then catching up on sleep from the train night.
<<<Porto, day 2.
Oh, Schist.>>>
Beautiful day, took a mini cruise on the river and saw some bridges. We then toured one of the Porto wine caves (the grapes grow in the schisty strata of the area) and tasted white, rose, ruby, tawny, and colheita ports. Delicious, delicious port. White and ruby are my favorites.
Walking back across the river and up into town we found we needed a bathroom thanks to all of the wine. Luckily we found a Porto-potty thereby avoiding any issues. (You're welcome. Give it a few moments and another reading, if necessary.)
Dinner at a grill place seafood and fish. Nothing says tasty like a grilled fish eyeball staring up from potatoes. Yum.
<<<Porto, day 3.>>>
We took a tram out to the ocean proper. Awesome waves breaking on and over the sea wall. Sound, smell, and sight like summer childhood but with bigger waves. Did some beach combing then walked the several kms back to Porto.
Mom, some sweet bird photos coming. There was an island in the river with tens of herons populating it (seagulls etc. too).
Pack up, check out (laundry done by/ at hotel. Well worth the price) to dinner - Sangria, delicious vegetable soup with a potato base, tapas - then train to Coimbra to catch night train #3.
Beds!!!! A revelation in train travel, though standing backwards on a rocking train is a bit nauseating.
To those of you with Sevilla, Lisboa, and Valencia suggestions: unfortunately we are moving on from them because of a shuffling of plans. The kind friend of a love offered us a place in Barcelona for a week and so that is where we're heading.
