BELGIUM (Bruges, only)
Flew into Brussels and had to catch a somewhat expensive bus shuttle into the city. Then caught a train to Bruges. Kick-ass thing about Belgium? Our train pass worked as I hoped it would work --- no additional charge for the trip. Woooo! We stayed at Rita's, B and B of Roger's past near the canal. It is lovely and contains aforementioned stained glass.
Bruges is quite lovely. Steeped rooves on the houses and canal running rampant - rather standing rampantly, as they are canals and not rivers. Rita still exists!(Rita being the room-renter-outer who rented a room to Roger and his friend Tom some years ago on their unknowingly romantic beer-tasting trip to Bruges.)
She is younger than I had imagined and the house, rather than being free-standing, about to fall into a canal, is a bit down a side street and well built, connected to the houses on either side of it. She gives us the front room full of light and three beds.
Note about traveling on the semi-cheap: sometimes with two people when you request a double you will get just that; a single bed to share. Sometimes you will get two twin beds shoved together. Depending upon the fixed or unfixed nature of the legs you will have a variable (surprisingly) exciting time of it. Sometimes you will get two twin beds separated by a chaste distance. Sometimes you will get bunkbeds, the most chummy appointments of them all.
After dropping off our things we took a stroll around town. There are AMPLE opportunities to buy chocolates, lace, fries, or waffles. Ample. On day one I bought myself a single zippo sized caramel and then Roger and I shared a panini and a chocolate covered waffle. This waffle had caramelized bits on the edges. Lovely.
Back for a nap and then out for dinner. The beer accompanying dinner was great and the meal itself good, though we didn't do a great job getting off of the beaten (tourist) path. Nonetheless the mat at the table was advertising a sweet ice show with the Lord of the Rings that had, sadly, already closed its frosty gates. Entertaining reading.
We tried some mussels au gratin, pickled herring (tasty if you like pickles!), our main plates were covered in the same wine reduction sauce which was tasty with ligonberries but the main meats themselves escape us so they were not the bomb (enough to be remembered, anyway. They were perfectly servicable as meats go). There was a tower lobster tank with dispondent lobsters overlooked by several paintings of assumedly important figures who seemed to come from a B-list Dracula film. All in all a solid time was had by all.
Day two in Bruges.
We woke up, had home-made croissants (by Rita, copyright) and a sampling of foods from the sidebar - yogurt, fruit, cheese, ham, bread rolls that looked like butts and tasted like delicious rolls (thankfully).
A note about croissants: I am having a European love affair with croissants. Before this trip I don't think I had ever eaten a truly fresh, tasty croissant. I didn't understand what the big deal was about them and almost didn't have one in Paris. Little did I know what light, stretchy heaven I might have missed. Sub-par croissants should be given to pigeons or made into wistful croutons. On the train from Prague to Krakow - I know, a bit of a jump ahead - we were given pre-packaged cocoa croissants. Although touched by the free snack, I was not impressed with the fare and left it... braving hunger for the sake of my newly found croissant standards. Foolish? Perhaps. Upholding of my newly minted croissant standards? Mais, oui.Absolutely. Perhaps some pigeons will have a delightful supper of that abandoned croissant. More likely, as it was left sealed, some other traveler will get it.
Back to Bruges! (which is also sometimes spelled Brugge. Why don't all maps spell a country or city the way the people who live there spell it? What the what, map-makers??) After breakfast we went out for another stroll. We took a canal boat ride with a (at least) trilingual guide. He would tell us a detail about the city first in English and then in French. He was about as excited about the tour as a cat in a poop pile. He brought new meaning to monotone. A water steward of the byways who'd been at his post twenty years too long. At the end of each French description he'd wave a careless hand at the mentioned attraction. Classic.
After disembarking we found ourselves quite chilled -upon returning to the mainland of Europe from Scotland we have found Winter- and so made our way to sushi (that's Belgian, right?). Another couple hours of wandering during which we found a third-generation chocolatier who sold us a kilo of chocolate for 12 Euro. A KILO. Of delicious hand-crafted chocolates. Wow. Then a nap. (Note: our chocolates lasted us through Vienna.)
Dinner found us on a wee side street with three awesome looking bars: De Hobbit, De Habit, and another I've forgotten. We ate some kick-ass ribs and seafood spaghetti at De Hobbit (though upon attempting to split one main dish the waitress gave us crap and so, while delicious, we were exceptionally full with two) and then crossed the street to the forgotten bar where they had hundreds of beers available. I tried a banana beer - like a banana Runt with a slightly off tang on the dismount - and a darker beer. Roger had two Belgian micro-brews. Photos will be more informative.
Back for sleep, another delicious Rita breakfast (this was the breakfast where we learned she crafted her own croissants because we had to wait for them to be removed from the oven. Oh, heaven.) and then onto the bus to the train station. Trip to Brussels, transfer to Frankfurt (nice and inexpensive - only cost the reservation of specific seats) where we arrived in the mid-afternoon.
Tuesday, February 19, 2013
Sunday, February 17, 2013
Scotland! 2-7 to 2-18 relatives are the bee's knees and haggis makes you smell
2-11
Spent the day in Stonehaven, wandering about in Dunnottar Castle (where once the Scottish crown jewels were buried for safe-keeping) and in the town. We stopped for a fried Mars bar in the fish and chips shop that claims birthplace of the . . . delicacy. Relaxed evening with delicious uncle-made pot roast dinner.
Driving in Scotland
We went to pick up our car around 10 in the morning.
One thing I like about renting cars in foreign countries: the vast majority of the cars have manual transmissions.
One thing that is challenging: the gear shift is on the driver's left side as opposed to the right side. This results in the driver periodically smacking his or her hand and forearm on the driver's side door (which is on the right) when attempting to shift. On one more alarming occassion (sorry, Roger) I unthinkingly shifted the car when I was not the one driving the car. (Really sorry, Roger.)
Another thing that is challenging: If one is from the U.S. one might be inclined to think folks drive on the incorrect side of the road.
One thing that is interesting and sometimes alarming: Scotland's road system is much less complicated and manic than the U.S.'s. This can be pleasantly surprising when driving on an "A" road (one of the roads acknowledged to be larger and more frequently traveled with fairly consistently painted middle lines between you and oncoming traffic) or a "B" road (one of the roads that's a bit narrower than two cars but still has two way traffic on the rare occassions that two cars are traveling on said road in opposite directions at the same moment in time.). But when you're first getting used to passing on the left it can lead to not infrequent driving in a ditch or grassy side of the road.
I have to say I've always wanted to try driving on the other side of the road. All in all it's not too bad and being able to turn left without worrying about crossing traffic feels like a sweet deal. Barring a few curbs we hit nothing important on our trip around the Highlands. High-five us.
The landscape in Scotland is beautiful and constantly changing. In an afternoon we drove through green fields full of sheep, a snowy mountain landscape with several foot high snow on both sides of the road, and reddish-brown fields (perhaps for growing something?) Pheasants in Scotland are as common as sparrows (or squirrels) in the U.S., just running across the road like they own the place. After a while Roger got bored of pheasants. Poor, glorious pheasants. It's too bad he doesn't appreciate your overrun magnificance.
We spent our first night in Inverness, near the top of Loch Ness. Pleasant B and B with full Scottish breakfast in the morning. We ate a meal of haggis (haggis for firsts and haggis in the chicken) and delicious Scottish beer and then rounded out the night at Hootenanny's at the suggestion of Jim and Ann - great live music jam band Scottland style.
--HAGGIS FARTS and Wee Autos --
Should you be taking a long driving trip in a small car, perhaps you will find it wise to think about your food choices in the leading 24 hour period. Haggis farts are a fierce and mighty beast. Insiduous in their spreading and hearty in their ability to withstand time and open windows, they will haunt you for hours. Hours. as you wend your way through the snowy Highland countryside. Be forewarned. That sheep, his stomach, and all of his minced bits will be coming back to haunt you as you gaze out the window at his brethren in the fields. Roger is a trooper.
Loch Ness, Aviemore, a Snow Storm, and Pitlochry
In the morning we drove to the Loch Ness exhibit. I was stoked to go as I wrote a persuasive essay about the existence of Nessie in 9th grade (thanks, Ms. McKenzie!) and have always kept a warm place in my heart regarding the Loch and the lore.
Prepared for hokiness (which, I'll grant you, there is an element of) we were also quite pleased and impressed with the interactive, cave-like exhibition. Well worth the time and money. If you look at the photos in the last blog you'll see a few taken while going through it.
Getting back on the road we drove south around the Loch and stopped briefly at Urquhart Castle and then continued on to Aviemore through increasingly dense snow. A bit worrisome on the narrow roads but, in general, folks drive reasonably and there are enough places to pull over to allow someone speedier to pass. Stopped for a quick bowl of cauliflower soup and tea in a town full of large plaster wildcats painted in many colors (made to raise awareness of the wildcat's falling population in the surrounding hills). One thing interesting about the roads: on an "A" road -- a more comfortably wide road -- going through a town you will often find one lane almost entirely blocked with people parking on the street. It's cool, that's how they roll. The redeeming thing about it is that people accommodate for it by scooting far over in the clear lane. Way to be cool, Scotland, way to be cool. Ate at the Mountain Cafe in Aviemore (another awesome, and this time delicious, relative recommendation) before beginning a drive in the serious part of the snowstorm on our way down to Pitlochry.
After driving for over an hour on a four lane (!) highway at the CRAZY speeds of 10 - 25 mph (and seeing some impressive herds of red(?) deer with kick-ass antlers) we got off the A9 in Pitlochry (evidently we lucked out as the A9 was closed later or further to the South).
Another lovely bed and breakfast and a dinner at the Auld Smiddy Inn. Delicious salmon and FANTASTIC creme brulee. By this I mean that I wanted to eat the custard part of the dish in addition to the burnt sugar awesomeness that coats it. Now you may, as others have before you, shake your head and say that the burnt sugar part is not the point of the creme brulee. I am here to tell you that I usually would disagree with you, but at this place, you'd be correct. Here's the even awesomer part. Upon complementing the dish the lady offered to send me the recipe if I emailed her. A hug for you, Auld Smiddy, and your lovely proprieter.
Pitlochry, Wandering in fields of Sheep, a Double-date, Valentine's Day
In the morning we decided to take a walk to a whiskey distillery. It was our second attempt to see one in action as driving up to Glenlivit's doorstep proved a wash as they are closed to visitors in the winter. We mis-calculated on the map and so ended up taking a detour to see the Black Castle and the Black Spout. To get there you walk through a bit of a neighborhood, into someone's sheep field, walk towards the sheep somewhat freaking them out, cross into the ruins, tromp about, finish the field, see someone's outdoor tub, wander into some woods and come out the other side near a different distillery. Scottish walks are aces.
Alas, we got to the Bell's distillery half-an-hour too late for the official tour. Nonetheless we were able to take a self-guided tour through an expansive mix of posture projects, maps, and creepy wax figures of significant moments and individuals in the Bell's journey to world fame and adoration.
Drive back to Stonehaven and a trip to the post office to offload some unnecessary items and purchase stamps for some of the postcards we'd been carrying since France and then some fish before driving in to Aberdeen with Jim.
A lovely evening ensued with beer, the Lincoln movie, and pizza dinner with Jim and Ann. The next morning we were up, fed, packed and then off to Glasgow to visit the cousins.
Glasgow
Getting into Glasgow an hour later than I told Tom (sorry, Tom) he was, nevertheless, waiting for us at the station. A walking tour of facts, some free hugs on the street, and catching up before dropping bags, some video games and fun neighbor facts, and heading around town for some beers and a tour of campus. Dinner at Ketchup with Tom and Mirren before losing too much of the buzz and petering out before hearing what I can only imagine was some sweet sweet karaoke. Next time.
Mirren put us up in her apartment (thank you again!!!) and we slept soundly before heading to meet Flynn for lunch on day two in Glasgow. It's been about five years since last I saw him and he's now in his first year at uni. He took us to a great teahouse where we played Scrabble (being true to our Lachendro roots) and drank tasty ginger, lemon, honey tea. I am proud to say I did a bit of trouncing. No doubt we'll re-match in five.
Dinner and drinks with Mirren and Scott -- felt lucky to get the time with this particularly busy fifth-year and her beau.
Next day bit of a wander before training to Edinburgh and a quick night in our now familiar hostel before an early flight out to Brussels.
Family
Cousins and aunts and uncles are awesome. They expand the mind and fill the soul with content. Love to you, Scotland family. You rocked our socks off.
Also, Scotland, we'll be back for more of your Highlands and Isles, you beauty.
Spent the day in Stonehaven, wandering about in Dunnottar Castle (where once the Scottish crown jewels were buried for safe-keeping) and in the town. We stopped for a fried Mars bar in the fish and chips shop that claims birthplace of the . . . delicacy. Relaxed evening with delicious uncle-made pot roast dinner.
Driving in Scotland
We went to pick up our car around 10 in the morning.
One thing I like about renting cars in foreign countries: the vast majority of the cars have manual transmissions.
One thing that is challenging: the gear shift is on the driver's left side as opposed to the right side. This results in the driver periodically smacking his or her hand and forearm on the driver's side door (which is on the right) when attempting to shift. On one more alarming occassion (sorry, Roger) I unthinkingly shifted the car when I was not the one driving the car. (Really sorry, Roger.)
Another thing that is challenging: If one is from the U.S. one might be inclined to think folks drive on the incorrect side of the road.
One thing that is interesting and sometimes alarming: Scotland's road system is much less complicated and manic than the U.S.'s. This can be pleasantly surprising when driving on an "A" road (one of the roads acknowledged to be larger and more frequently traveled with fairly consistently painted middle lines between you and oncoming traffic) or a "B" road (one of the roads that's a bit narrower than two cars but still has two way traffic on the rare occassions that two cars are traveling on said road in opposite directions at the same moment in time.). But when you're first getting used to passing on the left it can lead to not infrequent driving in a ditch or grassy side of the road.
I have to say I've always wanted to try driving on the other side of the road. All in all it's not too bad and being able to turn left without worrying about crossing traffic feels like a sweet deal. Barring a few curbs we hit nothing important on our trip around the Highlands. High-five us.
The landscape in Scotland is beautiful and constantly changing. In an afternoon we drove through green fields full of sheep, a snowy mountain landscape with several foot high snow on both sides of the road, and reddish-brown fields (perhaps for growing something?) Pheasants in Scotland are as common as sparrows (or squirrels) in the U.S., just running across the road like they own the place. After a while Roger got bored of pheasants. Poor, glorious pheasants. It's too bad he doesn't appreciate your overrun magnificance.
We spent our first night in Inverness, near the top of Loch Ness. Pleasant B and B with full Scottish breakfast in the morning. We ate a meal of haggis (haggis for firsts and haggis in the chicken) and delicious Scottish beer and then rounded out the night at Hootenanny's at the suggestion of Jim and Ann - great live music jam band Scottland style.
--HAGGIS FARTS and Wee Autos --
Should you be taking a long driving trip in a small car, perhaps you will find it wise to think about your food choices in the leading 24 hour period. Haggis farts are a fierce and mighty beast. Insiduous in their spreading and hearty in their ability to withstand time and open windows, they will haunt you for hours. Hours. as you wend your way through the snowy Highland countryside. Be forewarned. That sheep, his stomach, and all of his minced bits will be coming back to haunt you as you gaze out the window at his brethren in the fields. Roger is a trooper.
Loch Ness, Aviemore, a Snow Storm, and Pitlochry
In the morning we drove to the Loch Ness exhibit. I was stoked to go as I wrote a persuasive essay about the existence of Nessie in 9th grade (thanks, Ms. McKenzie!) and have always kept a warm place in my heart regarding the Loch and the lore.
Prepared for hokiness (which, I'll grant you, there is an element of) we were also quite pleased and impressed with the interactive, cave-like exhibition. Well worth the time and money. If you look at the photos in the last blog you'll see a few taken while going through it.
Getting back on the road we drove south around the Loch and stopped briefly at Urquhart Castle and then continued on to Aviemore through increasingly dense snow. A bit worrisome on the narrow roads but, in general, folks drive reasonably and there are enough places to pull over to allow someone speedier to pass. Stopped for a quick bowl of cauliflower soup and tea in a town full of large plaster wildcats painted in many colors (made to raise awareness of the wildcat's falling population in the surrounding hills). One thing interesting about the roads: on an "A" road -- a more comfortably wide road -- going through a town you will often find one lane almost entirely blocked with people parking on the street. It's cool, that's how they roll. The redeeming thing about it is that people accommodate for it by scooting far over in the clear lane. Way to be cool, Scotland, way to be cool. Ate at the Mountain Cafe in Aviemore (another awesome, and this time delicious, relative recommendation) before beginning a drive in the serious part of the snowstorm on our way down to Pitlochry.
After driving for over an hour on a four lane (!) highway at the CRAZY speeds of 10 - 25 mph (and seeing some impressive herds of red(?) deer with kick-ass antlers) we got off the A9 in Pitlochry (evidently we lucked out as the A9 was closed later or further to the South).
Another lovely bed and breakfast and a dinner at the Auld Smiddy Inn. Delicious salmon and FANTASTIC creme brulee. By this I mean that I wanted to eat the custard part of the dish in addition to the burnt sugar awesomeness that coats it. Now you may, as others have before you, shake your head and say that the burnt sugar part is not the point of the creme brulee. I am here to tell you that I usually would disagree with you, but at this place, you'd be correct. Here's the even awesomer part. Upon complementing the dish the lady offered to send me the recipe if I emailed her. A hug for you, Auld Smiddy, and your lovely proprieter.
Pitlochry, Wandering in fields of Sheep, a Double-date, Valentine's Day
In the morning we decided to take a walk to a whiskey distillery. It was our second attempt to see one in action as driving up to Glenlivit's doorstep proved a wash as they are closed to visitors in the winter. We mis-calculated on the map and so ended up taking a detour to see the Black Castle and the Black Spout. To get there you walk through a bit of a neighborhood, into someone's sheep field, walk towards the sheep somewhat freaking them out, cross into the ruins, tromp about, finish the field, see someone's outdoor tub, wander into some woods and come out the other side near a different distillery. Scottish walks are aces.
Alas, we got to the Bell's distillery half-an-hour too late for the official tour. Nonetheless we were able to take a self-guided tour through an expansive mix of posture projects, maps, and creepy wax figures of significant moments and individuals in the Bell's journey to world fame and adoration.
Drive back to Stonehaven and a trip to the post office to offload some unnecessary items and purchase stamps for some of the postcards we'd been carrying since France and then some fish before driving in to Aberdeen with Jim.
A lovely evening ensued with beer, the Lincoln movie, and pizza dinner with Jim and Ann. The next morning we were up, fed, packed and then off to Glasgow to visit the cousins.
Glasgow
Getting into Glasgow an hour later than I told Tom (sorry, Tom) he was, nevertheless, waiting for us at the station. A walking tour of facts, some free hugs on the street, and catching up before dropping bags, some video games and fun neighbor facts, and heading around town for some beers and a tour of campus. Dinner at Ketchup with Tom and Mirren before losing too much of the buzz and petering out before hearing what I can only imagine was some sweet sweet karaoke. Next time.
Mirren put us up in her apartment (thank you again!!!) and we slept soundly before heading to meet Flynn for lunch on day two in Glasgow. It's been about five years since last I saw him and he's now in his first year at uni. He took us to a great teahouse where we played Scrabble (being true to our Lachendro roots) and drank tasty ginger, lemon, honey tea. I am proud to say I did a bit of trouncing. No doubt we'll re-match in five.
Dinner and drinks with Mirren and Scott -- felt lucky to get the time with this particularly busy fifth-year and her beau.
Next day bit of a wander before training to Edinburgh and a quick night in our now familiar hostel before an early flight out to Brussels.
Family
Cousins and aunts and uncles are awesome. They expand the mind and fill the soul with content. Love to you, Scotland family. You rocked our socks off.
Also, Scotland, we'll be back for more of your Highlands and Isles, you beauty.
Friday, February 15, 2013
Photos: Dunnottar Castle and Highlands Road Trip
Captions to come. In the meantime, enjoy the scenery!
DUNNOTTAR CASTLE 2/11/13
HIGHLAND TRAVELS
Note the variety of landscapes observed in the course of one traveling day. Beautiful.
PITLOCHRY and a drive back to STONEHAVEN
DUNNOTTAR CASTLE 2/11/13
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| Ten points to the person who most appropriately defines this sign. |
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| Leonard the cat. |
HIGHLAND TRAVELS
Note the variety of landscapes observed in the course of one traveling day. Beautiful.
INVERNESS, LOCH NESS, AVIEMORE, PITLOCHRY and a bit of a blizzard (though not as much as you, Northeast U.S.)
PITLOCHRY and a drive back to STONEHAVEN
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